the old heart still beats
Tokyo, JPIt is January in western Tokyo. Plastic fir trees still linger in the porches of the gated homes in Denenchōfu and I have been renting a tumbledown room close to the steep curve of Dorikono-zaka.
I write to you haunted. Or, perhaps, I am doing the haunting. These days I'm scarcely able to tell the difference. You see, I have been wandering these empty streets at night, retracing the paths of my youth.
When we say we love a city, what we are often really saying is that we love the people who made us feel a part of it. So, when I think of this place I do not dwell on Tokyo Tower or the glare of the Yamanote. No, I am taken first to nights sharing chūhai and convenience-store bento under the Maruko bridge. To the fogged windows of our neighbourhood yakiniku joint; hushed words and cigarettes passed between sauce-greased lips. How we'd stumble from the train to walk home en masse, our hands warmed by vending-machine coffee and voices hoarse from just-one-more-hour of karaoke. It's curious how, in those liminal moments as a season of your life draws to a close, you feel as if you might live forever. It's only in parting ways that I think some distant version of yourself succeeds.
And so tonight I have installed myself on the paved bank of the Tama river, where we used to meet. The last train is readying to leave, hurtling passengers from Shibuya, towards Kawasaki and on to Yokohama. As the carriages clatter overhead, I feel their resonance in the hollows of my chest and think on how Tokyo pulled itself up from nothing but the black waters of the bay marshes. How, when the city outgrew the land, they covered over the life-giving rivers and reinvented the streets atop vast caverns of concrete and steel. But the old heart still beats. Out here on the banks of the Tamagawa, close to midnight, there's a gentle clarity to be found amongst the mud and reed grass.
Across the water, the floodlights of the Todoroki stadium have begun to flicker and fade. Soon I will be on a flight home to the people I love and who love me back. I am so eager to greet all that this new year brings. For now though, I will sit here a short while longer. Quietly tending to the ghosts of my twenties.
Under the Tōyoko-sen, sleet falling.